The result is a network of ancient chalk quarries—known as the Crayères —stretching for 18 kilometers (11 miles) directly beneath the city. Walking through these tunnels feels less like a cellar and more like a silent, whitewashed cathedral.
I recently had the privilege of visiting the legendary Maison Pommery, and frankly, "winery tour" doesn't cover it. It was an art history lesson, a geology walk, and a spiritual experience all rolled into one. Let’s rewind to 1858. While most houses were fighting over vineyards on the surface, a visionary widow named Louise Pommery took a risk. She dug down. laboratoire pommery
Every year, Pommery invites contemporary artists to install pieces in the caves. Imagine walking through a 2,000-year-old Roman chalk mine and turning a corner to find a giant silver octopus, a floating LED cloud, or a bed made of baguettes. The result is a network of ancient chalk
The contrast is jarring and brilliant. The ancient, organic curves of the chalk against the sharp, conceptual edges of modern sculpture. It wakes you up. It forces you to stop rushing toward the tasting room and actually feel the weight of the place. Before Madame Pommery, Champagne was sweet—cloyingly, tooth-achingly sweet. But tastes changed, and Madame Pommery realized that the British loved dry wines. So, she made the boldest move in wine history: she stopped adding sugar. It was an art history lesson, a geology
Have you visited the caves in Reims? Which Champagne house is on your bucket list? Let me know in the comments below.
But when you descend 30 meters below the chalky soil of Reims into the Crayères of , you realize the true magic of this wine isn't noise—it is silence.
The temperature is a constant 10°C (50°F). The walls are soft enough to scratch with a fingernail, and the air smells of wet stone and aging yeast. It is here, in this dark, quiet womb, that millions of bottles of Pommery rest on their lees, waiting to become the driest, most elegant style of Champagne ever invented (Madame Pommery invented Brut in 1874—you’re welcome). Here is where Pommery differs from every other Champagne house. They didn't just fill the caves with barrels; they filled them with modern art.